Sunday, July 29, 2012

School Construction Begins

Thanks to the generosity of an amazing British couple, my community has finally received the funds it needs to complete construction of its elementary school.  The following photos detail the community's efforts in collecting the raw materials, sand and rock, needed for completion.  
Getting sand meant driving to a dried riverbed and filling the trailer with spades and old rice sacks.  Despite the fact that the wheels fell of the program early in the day (literally, the wheel fell off our trailer) the work was salvaged and we were able to get the needed sand.

Taking advantage of the abundance of local rock my villagers also gathered the stone needed to complete the floors.

All the labor made us very hungry.  Local women prepared the noon meal for us. 

To encourage participation in community events it is customary to provide local alcohol.  These three are at the end of a long day of labor and their last bottle of local brew.  

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

More Photos

Sunrise over Diego Bay

Sharing photos at site
Though I have mentioned this aspect of my PC life in several previous posts, today I would like to go into detail about my work in environmental and cultural conservation. 

Both for their scenic splendor and their geological uniqueness, Ankarana National Park is known for its limestone formations, called tsingy. Derived from the Malagasy word mitsingitsingy  or to tip-toe, tsingy formations are found in only two locations in all of Madagascar.  Almost as remarkable as the formations themselves are the fauna and flora which inhabit the patchwork forests of the National Park.  Of these forest inhabitants, endemic lemurs are the largest attraction for park visitors. 

Falling only a few kilometers south of Ankarana national Park are lesser tsingy formations.  Only a few in number they lack any official protected status.  My work this year has been focused on securing the legal status necessary to protect the environmental and cultural treasures of one formation in particular: the Tsingy Mahaloka.

This lengthy process began in February.  In order for protected status to be granted there must be a community partner willing to take responsibility for natural resource management.  Thanks to the work of an extremely motivated and talented former Peace Corps volunteer, Christi Turner, that group has existed since 2007.  Yet, while they held regular meetings and built and managed a small campsite near the Tsingy Mahaloka, the group never managed to secure official legal status as fikambanana or association. Saving you from the gritty details, including a whole pile of false starts and unsavory dealings (according to Forbes Magazine, Madagascar has the distinct honor of being the world's worst place to do business, largely in part to bureaucracy), KOFAMA finally received its legal status in March. 

By May, with the generosity of  Madagascar National Parks, we were ready to make our request for a management title.  Thanks to our previous experience and the good will of others, it appears that completion of the management title will take place before July. 

Now you might ask yourself, what does all of this documentation mean?  Good question, and the answer is still in development.  But, to give you one specific example, look at the benefits that legalization will provide for one of the Tsingy Mahaloka's most impressive treasures, the Mandresy Cave.

Located near the Tsingy Mahaloka campsite the Mandresy Cave is highly valuable for both its environmental and cultural richness.  Of unexplored length and depth, the cave is home to an impressive number of bats.  Their presence contributes to the abundance of rich biotic life on the cave floors as well.  As the following picture illustrates, however, their presence has been both a blessing and a curse.  Many people are interested in gathering guano, bat poop, from the Mandresy Cave for use as an agricultural fertilizer. Their aggressive extraction does extensive damage to the cave's delicate ecosystem.  With legalization the KOFAMA group will be able to prevent pilfering and uncontrolled extraction.




The cave also draws its name from a rich cultural history.  During Madagascar's tribal wars, in which armies from the plateau invaded coastal land and tribes, the caves were used as hideouts for fleeing peoples.  Mandresy, or to win, signifies the victory of those survivors.  For many decades, the cave has also been used as a tomb for ancestors of the local Antakarana poeple.  Because of their presence a strict system of fady, or taboos, applies to the Mandresy Cave.  For example, women must wear traditional clothing and men may not wear hats or smoke.  Not only are those who extract guano causing environmental destruction but they are also ignore this system of fady. With a management plan in place the KOFAMA group will be able to enforce rules related to entrance. 

This is only one example, of course.  The land which will be placed under KOFAMA's management includes everything for lemurs to stalactites.  Through the work of KOFAMA and its partners I hope that legalization will provide a solid foundation for community based eco-tourism and resource management.

On the Road

Many children spend their days filling potholes on the main highway.  Drivers or passengers occasionally throw them 100Ar (about 5 cents) for their work.  This child is chasing after his 100Ar. 


 I took this picture to give you an idea of what bus rides are like.  This one was actually fairly spacious, yet we still manage to fall all over each other. 

Saturday, May 26, 2012

The CEG Marivorahona

Because the Malagasy government did not have the resources to furnish a school structure, parents were required to construct classrooms using traditional and inexpensive materials.

The holes in the roof, as this picture shows, are what prevent students from learning during the rainy season.

Friday, May 18, 2012

Pictures

Flew into Antananarivo yesterday for my Mid Service Conference.  Excited to see friends and, at last, to have access to a decent internet connection.  Here are a few pictures... 

The kids love to play marbles.  And sometimes they are willing to share.

A lot of my time has been spent in meetings like this one.  Tourists have just begun arriving to my area and the group pictured is preparing for its first guests of the season.

Not a very exciting photo, I know, but I only wanted to point out that the rain clouds have finally given way to blue skies. The road to my village is beginning to dry and the seasonal winds, called "varatraza", provide a little relief from the mid-day heat

One of the local "barbershops" is behind a tree near my house.  For the price of a razor blade most anyone seems willing to cut your hair.  I splurge, however, and get my hair cut in the city for $1.50.

Sunday, May 6, 2012

Finally...an update

Since the holidays ended in December and January I have been completely irresponsible with my postings.  The rainy season really dampened everything, including my motivation to write, but let me begin today by trying to fill in where I left off.

January and February marked the start of the rainy season and the rice planting season.  Like everyone else I also planted a crop.  More than anything it was a chance for me to get my hands dirty; to participate in the one thing that everyone talks about. Both in planting and harvesting I attracted quite a bit of attention.  My field was right out my front door and near the road.  It is not everyday that people see a "vazaha", soaked in sweat, pulling weeds.  

The rains of January and February also made most roads impassable.  By February, tractors and adventurous bicyclists are the only things able to move.  Without a tractor I became the latter.  Thank goodness for the nice bikes Peace Corps provides us.  

By March I was on my way to the capitol to train the newest volunteers.  Away from site for a full month I helped provide technical and cross-cultural lessons as well as answered an endless variety of of questions.  It was a ton of work - being part of the staff put a whole new perspective on trainings - and it was interesting to reflect on how far I have come in my own service.  To think that Peace Corps and the trainees would and did trust my advice is incredible (..y laughable?).  All in all I feel good about my time there and may do the same in the year ahead.

Since my arrival at site in April life has been moving quickly.  Another world map project, the construction of a village sales house for local weavers, and the arrival of an intern at my ecotourism site have kept me very busy.  This work will hopefully continue for the next several months,  The majority of tourists arrive from May to August and I have high hopes for my projects this year.  In just a few days I leave for the capitol again and my mid-service conference.  A chance to learn, relax, and catch up with friends are what I look forward to most.  

Sorry, no pictures yet.  Sitting at a friends computer in Ambanja, two hours south of my site.  In town for a birthday party and the chance to borrow an internet connection.
Love,
Ted